Westport to Motueka |
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Tuesday the 4th had several items of significance. It was our last day with Rob and Chunya - it was my last day to be travelling with Ajahn Anuttalo and... it was my birthday. And the sun was shining. Rob had kindly offered to drive us to Picton which made it so much easier for coordinating departure and arrival; to meet venerable Javano and farewell Ajahn Anuttalo. Venerable J. arrived bearing birthday munchies with time enough to consume them before midday.
The great monk-swap at Picton ferry terminal.
Gooddye Ajahn A. and welcome Ven. J. We opted for the road less travelled along Queen Charlotte Drive and surprisingly got a left very quickly which took us to Anakiwa Road. We walked out to the bay but they were no suitable places for camping so we walked back and tucked in behind a hedge row in a field. The sky was darkening and about 4:30 it rained.
By morning the rain had stopped but our tents were quite wet. No matter. After a nice cuppa and a slow packup we walk down Anakiwa Rd. to the highway. After a fairly short wait we get a ride with a local lady who takes us to Havelock. We set up for pindapat outside a bakery. A man stops and asks: "Are you going to be doing this all your life?" Uh oh?? The bakery staff make several offerings. Nice. Then an older lady expresses her sadness (and various dogmas) regarding our sad, non-Christian lives. Not so nice. We eventually walk down to the next cafe - the same lady is there... with repeated entreaties. Then her friend joins and echoes the same... opinions. We (mostly) maintain our modest restraint. Then down to the pie shop where we receive kind words and generous offerings. Thank you. The road out of town has no clear hitching spot and we wait over an hour until Ashley stops. By various turns we end up at his place for over three hours enjoying the river, the dogs, the chat, a cup of tea, and finally he takes us to Polorous Bridge.
Ashley with two (of five) of his dogs.
Thursday the 6th saw an overnight of 3 degrees. Brrr. The spot was so nice so we had earlier agreed to spend a second day here. The next morning was very relaxed and we sat with a cuppa watching the sun rise and gradually bathe our campsite and dry our dew laden tents. We packed up and stashed our packs in the bush walking to cross the bridge and follow the loop walk. (More) tea on the stony peninsula with dappled sunlight sparkling on the river. Another walk to the first waterfall led to a late afternoon spent in meditation before we retired.
Possibly the best camp spot of the trip with a swimming hole, tap water, toilets and good sun.
The next day was not so cold but our tents were quite wet both with dew and condensation. It was a short walk and we were on the road by 8am with a good spot for hitching. I was just starting to put on my robe when Vince stopped and offered us a lift to Nelson; the shortest hitch time yet. Along with the usual questions we explained our food situation and he gave us 3 bags of chips each which we ate in the park. Then a short walk into town for pindapat. Cambodian man gave us a fruit slice each... a busy cafe... two vegie wraps and a muffin. Finally at the Falafel Gourmet we met a lady who had been to Thailand and took us inside with an open offer. It was back to the park to eat followed by a walk along Rocks Road parallel with the waterfront. Traffic was moving very slowly and the road was narrow with no place to hitch. Eventually we found a slight widening and in minutes a 16 seat bus pulls up with a Sri Lankan tour guide at the wheel. He takes us right to Rob and Penny's place on Amber Rise. Rob's brother Bruce and his sister-in-law Anita are visiting so there is no room in the inn but lots of room to camp in the garden.
Happily tucked away in Rob and Pen's garden.
Saturday the 8th. After a yummy breakfast together Rob drove us to the beach. We walked for about an hour along the base of high sedimentary cliffs. The six of us sat down to a wonderful lunch and some lovely conversation. It was then down to the highway to continue hitching. We were looking in the direction of oncoming cars when a young voice behind asks "Do you want a ride?"Jenny and her son were going to Motueka and he had walked back from the junction to invite us. They drove us all the way to Te Kumara, north-west of Motueka, where after about twenty minutes of wandering about we found a very pleasant place to camp. There was some rain in the air but the most we got were very dramatic sunset skies - and a traffic-noise free night's sleep.