Ashburton to Fox Glacier |
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The early morning of Saturday the 22nd of February saw two monks snuggly resting on the floor in the kuti out the back of Murray and Luckana's house in Ashburton. Unlike all our previous mornings there was a call for breakfast. What a treat! After some tea and a lovely chat we headed out to visit Peel Forest to enjoy the walk in the woods and have views of and contact with some superbly old totara trees. To be still standing after a thousand years is quite an achievement. We shared a sumptuous lunch together in Geraldine after which they drop us outside of town - where we waited... and waited some more. After 50 minutes I said to Ajahn Anuttalo "Something has got to change, we need to change our luck." "I will take off my sun hat and put up my umbrella and if the next five cars don't stop we can walk further down the road." And counting... 1... 2... 3... and car number 4 saw our new friend Floris arrive in his camper van. YAY! He had only arrived that day from Thailand and was happy for us to join his tour We drove to Lake Tekapo then on to Lake Pukaki with stunning views of the mountains. And such beauty attracts people so the area was awash with camper vans and photographers - ourselves included. The downside being that every open space had a sign clearly declaring: "No Camping". We did eventually find a space on the east side with no sign, no people and great views. Floris had a healthy interest in dhamma so there was much tea and talk. I have the beginnings of some kind of flu and a combinaion of strong winds and cold air meant I had a somewhat uncomfortable night.
Floris is in the van preparing tea beside Lake Tekapo.
The morning of the 23rd was gray and overcast and I was feeling less than chirpy - a bit miserable. Floris whipped up a really nice scrambled egg (and bits) for breakfast with bread; all followed by a big bowl of yogurt meuseley. That helped lift the spirits and the sky was gradually lightening, becaming clearer by the minute - even sunshine! Floris was basically going the same way as us and seemed to be enjoying both the company and our Dhamma discussion. He was 'on tour' so we stopped at various scenic points along the way, went for short walks with photos taken and generally taking in the sights. We were headed to Hawea to visit Finlay, an old x-monk/friend. Floris very kindly drove us right to his gate and we arrived about 2. Finlay and his wife Pip have several BnB accommodations and being peak season they were quite busy - in a nice, relaxed way. More tea and talk. I had a bath for an hour and then a nap for an hour and generally felt a bit better; a happy heart but a snotty nose :( - Their busyness meant that we are still in tents but they have a couple of a nice spatious variety.
An early morning Finlay on the back porch of his superbly homely house.
Apart from (not infrequently) having to empty the nose I slept very soundly, but quite late. Finlay was kind enough to call me at 8.30 for breakfast. With not much of an appetite it was a bit of a slow and dopey morning for me. And how synchronistically good it was to be able to have space to relax in - as opposed to being on the road. After a lovely F&P breakfast F,K&A headed out on a short tour of the area ending up at Finlay's workshop for that tour and an hour or more helping him tidy up. We then worked on my (dodgy plastic) tent pole connectors with a pretty good copper alternative as result. Then back 'home' for a drink and a relatively early night.
Our two intrepid travellers pose beside lake Wanaka.
I was feeling less dead this morning and saw a tentative appetite poised and ready for a lovely bacon and eggs breakfast. Pip had been in touch with one of the local Thai restaurants and we headed there about 11.30. They were closed... we waited... eventually they welcomed us in and offered the three of us a delightful, sumptuous meal. Anumodana. Back in tour mode we drove to the lake edge and saw the Wanaka willow then drove around the lake to the mouth of the Mātukituki river. What a wild and spacious landscape, completely free of construction and empty of people. Back to the ranch and a glass of fizzy, elderberry cordial. It is the full moon tomorrow so we shave our head. Pip has also posted some information on social media offering a gathering tomorrow evening. We will be looking our monastic best!
The Wednesday evening meeting went very well with 11 people joining us for meditation a short talk and a lively discussion which all went on quite late. The next morning I felt much better but was somewhat tired after the late night nevertheless rising (staggering forth) at 7.45 in time for another superb breakfast - of the big variety as this will likely be our food for the day.
Camped beside a superb bathing pool in a calm section of the Clearwater river.
As a part of Pips posting a lady phoned offering transport north. Heading out about 10 we get to meet Tai, a Taiwanese lady who was driving up the west coast. She was very kind and stopped at several points of interest for us tourists. Although she was planning to get to Blenheim that night I figured it would be better to span out our remaining distance over more days. Tai kindly drove us a few kilometres down a side road to an excellent viewing point of the Fox Glacier. And then on to stop by the Clearwater river on the north side of town. What an incredibly beautiful place to camp with a crystal clear torrent just outside the door and pristine bush all around. Nighty night....